THE PLACE TO BUY LARGE TREES, MATURE TREES AND SPECIMEN TREES DIRECT
We can supply an enormous range of large trees. They range from smaller trees grown in containers, which a strong person might lift and plant alone, to enormous mature trees. The largest specimen trees have been grown in open ground and can only be moved and planted by machine.
Very large trees need planting by, and aftercare from, experts. For trees in containers you, or a local landscaper, may be able to arrange planting.
We source from reliable growers in this country and abroad who are used to supplying high quality mature trees.
If you know what you want or wish to make an enquiry please email email@example.com We are always ready to discuss your requirements.
Please note that our minimum order is £200 ex VAT and that delivery is charged at cost where it is charged separately.
Please note that tree planting advice given here is general and cannot be guaranteed to apply to every situation. It is given in good faith for use at your own risk.
PLANTING A LARGER TREE
The principles of tree planting are similar whatever the size of tree. The idea is to try to disturb the tree as little as possible, placing it in an appropriate hole and in a situation to which it is suited. An acid loving tree should not be planted in chalky soil, nor a sensitve tree in an exposed location. Some trees need good drainage or are less tolerant of frost or sea spray. Aftercare and staking are then designed to help it settle in. Larger trees of course will need more expert handling and those in pots over about 70litres in size may need moving and planting using machinery.
To prepare for planting, a hole a little larger than the pot needs to be prepared. In heavy clay this would need to be broken up around the edges and bottom to prevent it from turning into a sump filled with water which would suffocate the tree roots. In light soils this is not necessary. Neither is it necessary to feed the tree at planting or provide rich compost as it is useful to encourage the tree’s roots to search for nutrients by growing into the surrounding soil. Although feeding is not essential it is now considered very useful to add mycorrhizal fungi to the roots when planting. The Royal Horticultural Society considers that they –
– aid plant establishment and vigour,
– help to overcome replanting problems,
– produce better developed root systems and
– leave trees better able to cope with drought. Rootgrow is the first and only plant or soil ameliorant licensed by the RHS and provides mycorrizal fungi (but we are not able to endorse it as we haven’t any test results).
In general the tree should be planted so that the ground level is close to the level of the surface of the compost in the pot.
STAKING. Most trees will need some staking to prevent the wind from rocking the tree loose. It’s necessary to take into account both the size of the tree and how exposed it will be to strong winds. Large trees are likely to need more staking than smaller ones. Tree sizes are usually measured by their girth (which is their circumference in cms at 1m above the ground) if they have a single stem or by their height and pot size. For most trees up to around 16cm girth in a normal garden situation staking is by using a single stake driven in at around 45degrees and facing into the predominant wind which is often from the south west. The stake must be driven firmly into the ground avoiding the rootball as far as possible. It will usually cross the stem of the tree about 60cm above the ground. A well cushioned adjustable tree tie is attached and it should be loosened each year as the tree grows. Generally it can be removed after 2 or 3 years. For larger trees double staking is used (and occasionally guying and ground anchoring for very larger trees or difficult situations) which consists of using two tall vertical stakes.These would be either side of the stem and outside the tree’s rootball. The stakes are joined by a cross-piece which is attached to the tree by a cushion and flexible tree tie.
For very flexible young trees it may be necessary to use a taller single stake which can be reduced in height as the tree establishes. The general principle is that trees get stronger by flexing and adapting to adverse circumstances just as the muscles of an animal do. Over-staking therefore tends to produce weaker trees in the long run.
Don’t forget that rabbit or deer guards or protection against grazing cattle may also be vital.
AFTERCARE It is surprising the extent to which weeds and grasses can compete with tree roots for nutrients and water. For trees planted into lawns or meadows therefore it is important to leave a clear circle about 1m in diameter until the tree is well established.. Mulching with a mulch mat or with about 50mm of bark can help, depending on species and location, both to keep weeds down and to maintain moisture levels in the soil. It is of course essential not to let the rootball dry out for at least the first year (see below).
Pruning of laterals (small side branches coming from the main stems) and of dead or diseased branches can be carried out at planting and will usually help the tree to establish.
WATERING. It is always important to remember that a large percentage of the losses in the first year or two are caused by allowing the roots of the tree to dry out. Periods of drought are especially dangerous. However watering little and often can encourage the roots of the tree to stay near the surface instead of spreading to seek new sources of water. The spreading of the roots will also, of course, stabilise the tree long after the stakes have been removed. For these reasons, and because tree roots need air, it is often better to water trees through tubes sunk at the time of planting which provide water, as well as air, to the roots a foot or two below the surface. Failing this, surface watering systems such as leaky hoses can be useful especially when combined with mulches (although there are also trees, even species such as yew native to our better drained soils, which do not thrive if the soil is damp and mulched around their roots). In general it is important to prevent the tree’s roots from drying out during the first two or three years after planting and especially when the leaves are expanding in early spring. After spending on a large or mature tree it is foolish to let it die by poor aftercare. Unfortunately it is also very common.
Further useful information is available at the RHS site www.rhs.org